Portobello “steak” au poivre

December 30, 2021December 30, 2021 Belinda

Recipe by Ali Slagle

Steak au poivre, a classic French dish of peppercorn-crusted steak with cream sauce, seems like it was meant to be made with mushrooms. Not only do mushrooms sear well, but they’re also a friend to the dish’s main flavorings of heavy cream, heady spices and warming liquor. For the best results, crisp the mushrooms first in a hot pan, baste them with garlic butter until tender, then let them simmer in the cream sauce so they soak up that richness. Eat with roasted, mashed or fried potatoes, a salad of watercress or another spicy green.

Serves 4

4 large portobello mushrooms, stems and gills removed with a spoon
¼ cup olive oil
2 tsp coarsely ground black pepper
4 tbsp unsalted butter, plus more as needed
3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
Kosher salt
1 shallot, finely chopped
¼ cup Cognac or another brandy
¾ cup heavy cream
1 tbsp Dijon mustard

Brush the mushrooms all over with olive oil. Sprinkle the pepper evenly over the gill sides (about 1/2 teaspoon per mushroom). Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high, then add the mushrooms gill side up and sear until the underside is browned and the gill side looks wet, 3 to 6 minutes. Flip and cook until golden and the pepper is fragrant, 2 to 4 minutes.
Reduce heat to medium-low.
Flip the mushrooms so they’re gill side up, then add the butter and garlic, and season with salt. While stirring the garlic to keep it from scorching, tilt the skillet to spoon up the melting butter and baste the mushrooms until tender, 2 to 5 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a plate, leaving the butter in the skillet.
Add the shallot and stir until softened, 2 to 4 minutes, adding a little more butter if the pan is dry. Stand back, and carefully add the Cognac. (It might flame.) Stir until the Cognac has nearly evaporated. Add the heavy cream and mustard, season with salt, and stir to combine. Return the mushrooms to the pan gill side down, and cook until the cream is thickened and the color of a latte, 2 to 4 minutes.
Eat the mushrooms with a drizzle of the sauce.

Celery root and tahini potato gratin

December 15, 2021 Belinda

Marcus Wareing’s delicious twist on dauphinois includes celery root and tahini. Serve the creamy gratin as a main with a crisp salad, or as a side dish to go with roast meat.

Butter to grease
800g floury potatoes, peeled
1 large celery root (about 700g), peeled
2 onions, thinly sliced
4 thyme sprigs, leaves picked, plus extra to garnish
200g tahini
600ml good-quality vegetable stock, warmed
½ tsp fine sea salt
½ tsp ground white pepper
1 tsp garlic powder
Handful grated mature cheddar to cover

Heat the oven to 325F/160°C fan/gas 4 and grease a large casserole (about 26cm) with butter.
Using a mandoline or food processor with a slicer function, thinly slice the potatoes and celery root 1-2mm thick (or slice carefully by hand with a knife). The celery root is tricky to handle due to its size and shape, so cut it into half or quarters first for easier slicing.

Arrange a layer of sliced celery root in the bottom of the greased baking dish and season with a little of the salt and pepper. Follow with a thin layer of sliced onion and thyme leaves, then a single layer of potatoes. Season again. Repeat the layering of vegetables and thyme until they’ve all been used, ensuring the final layer of potato is arranged neatly as this will be visible when you serve the dish.

Whisk the tahini and vegetable stock together in a jug until evenly combined, then mix in the remaining salt and pepper and the garlic powder. Pour the tahini mixture over the layered vegetables, allowing it to sink in between the layers, then cover with foil.

Bake the gratin in the oven for 1¼-1½ hours. To test if it’s cooked, push a small knife into the centre – the potato and celery root should be soft all the way through and the knife should meet no resistance. If necessary, cover with foil again and return to the oven for 15 minutes more until soft (before adding the cheese).
When the gratin is cooked, remove the foil, sprinkle with grated cheese and return to the oven for 15 minutes to brown. Sprinkle with extra thyme and wait a few minutes before serving – it will be very hot.

Baking · Breakfast · Holiday Food · Vegetable-related

Parsnip, scallion and thyme gratin

December 15, 2021December 15, 2021 Belinda

You’ve had potato gratin, well now there’s creamy parsnip gratin, flavored with nutmeg and fresh thyme then topped with sourdough croutons – it’s the ultimate side dish for roast meat.
Recipe adapted from Delicious Magazine

250g sourdough bread, torn into 1/2/2cm pieces
3 tbsp olive oil
10 fresh thyme sprigs
2 long sprigs fresh rosemary
2 banana shallots, finely sliced
6-8 scallions, trimmed and cut into thirds
1 tbsp plain flour
300ml heavy whipping cream
350ml whole milk
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
500g parsnips, quartered and any woody cores removed, cut into 1/4″/1cm chunks
300g Yukon Gold potatoes (halved if large), cut into 1/4″ /1cm slices
6oz Gruyère or mature cheddar, coarsely grated

You will need a 1.4 liter baking dish

1/ Heat the oven to 400F/200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.
Put the sourdough pieces on a large baking tray, then toss with 2 tbsp olive oil, the leaves from 4 thyme sprigs and the rosemary leaves, chopped. Season with salt and pepper, then bake for 10 minutes until golden and crisp. Set aside.

Turn down the oven to 350F/180°C/160°C fan/gas 4.

2/ Heat the remaining oil in a large pan or casserole over a medium heat, then cook the shallots and spring onions for 7-8 minutes until soft. Add the flour and stir for 3 minutes, then turn the heat to low-medium and add the double cream, milk, nutmeg and 2 thyme sprigs. Heat until just steaming. Add the parsnips and potatoes and cook for 10 minutes until softening. Season with salt and pepper, remove from the heat (discard any woody thyme sprigs), then stir in a third of the cheese.

3/ Pour the vegetables and creamy liquid into the prepared baking dish, sprinkle half the remaining cheese on top, then bake for 30 minutes. Scatter the croutons on top of the gratin with the rest of the thyme and cheese, then bake for 15-20 minutes more until the top is golden brown and the gratin is bubbling. Serve with a sharply dressed green salad.
delicious. tips
You could use other crusty breads such as ciabatta or baguette for the topping.

Prepare the gratin to the end of step 2 a few hours in advance, cool and keep in the fridge until ready to bake.

Store the herby, baked sourdough croutons in a sealed container.

Do-ahead · Holiday Food · Nuts · Vegetable-related

Maple-glazed parsnip, chestnut and feta loaf

December 6, 2021September 7, 2022 Belinda

The nut roast of all nut roasts. This vegetarian recipe is packed with the different textures and flavors of nuts, herbs, tangy feta and sweet, sticky parsnips. A fabulous main course for Thanksgiving or Christmas for your vegetarian friends.
(Hopefully you have measuring scales that convert to grams, as I am loathe to do the conversions on this one!)
Recipe from Olive magazine

Serves 6-8
150g unsalted butter, plus an extra knob and a little to grease
150-200g parsnips, trimmed and cut lengthways into 1.5cm slices
50g pecan halves or pieces
50g blanched almonds
30g pine nuts
2 large leeks, sliced
200g button or chestnut mushrooms, quite finely chopped
200g chestnuts, roughly chopped
2 large garlic cloves, crushed
3 fresh rosemary sprigs, finely chopped, plus extra to garnish
½ small bunch fresh sage, finely chopped
4 fresh thyme sprigs, finely chopped
Small bunch fresh parsley, finely chopped
100g fresh breadcrumbs
50g plain flour
100ml maple syrup
200g feta cheese
3 large free-range eggs

Heat the oven to 350F/190°C/170°C fan/ gas 5.
Lightly butter a deep 8″/20cm loose-bottomed cake tin and line the base with baking paper. Steam the parsnips for 5-8 minutes to take off the raw edge (they don’t need to be cooked all the way through). Put in a colander and leave to dry.
Spread the pecans and almonds in an even layer on a baking sheet, then toast for 5 minutes in the oven. Add the pine nuts and toast for 3-5 minutes more until golden. Cool, roughly chop and set aside.

Melt 75g butter in a large frying pan on a low heat. Add the leeks, season and cook gently, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes until soft and sweet, then transfer to a large mixing bowl.
Add the remaining 75g butter to the frying pan and turn up the heat to high. When the butter is hot and foaming, add the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, then cook for 5-7 minutes, tossing every now and then, until golden brown. Add the chestnuts and garlic, then cook for 2 minutes, stirring so the garlic doesn’t brown. Add the mixture to the leeks, along with the chopped nuts, chopped herbs, breadcrumbs and flour.
Taste and season.

Wipe out the frying pan and put it over a medium-high heat. Add the maple syrup and a knob of butter. When bubbling, add the parsnip pieces, without crowding the pan. Fry for 3-4 minutes until golden, then flip over and cook for another couple of minutes on the other side. Remove with a fish slice, leaving the syrup in the pan, and put the parsnips, flat-side down and spaced out a little, into the cake tin. Leave the buttery maple syrup in the pan.

Crumble the feta into the nut mixture, then crack in the eggs and mix well to combine. Spoon the mixture on top of the parsnips and press down lightly. Bake in a 190°C/170°C fan/gas 5 oven for 45 minutes, covering the top with foil if it browns too much (a little color is good). Let it cool in the tin for 10-15 minutes, then invert carefully onto a flat plate and peel off the baking paper.
Reheat the syrup in the pan, season with sea salt and add a few rosemary sprigs. Brush the caramel over the top of the loaf, decorate with the rosemary leaves and serve with a sharply dressed bitter salad.
delicious. tips
Most varieties of nuts will work well with this recipe, so use up what’s in your store cupboard.

Complete recipe to the end of step 6, cool completely, then keep covered in the fridge for up to 3 days. Reheat in a low oven to serve and complete recipe. Alternatively, wrap well in greaseproof paper and cling film, then freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost in the fridge overnight, then reheat in a low oven to serve and complete recipe.

Do-ahead · Gluten Free · Holiday Food · Vegetable sides · Vegetable-related

Leek and Mushroom Cottage Pie

November 27, 2021September 7, 2022 Belinda

Recipe by David Tanis

Traditionally, shepherd’s pie is made with minced lamb and vegetables, and topped with mashed potatoes instead of pastry. If made with beef, it is called cottage pie. So it should follow that a vegetable version could be named gardener’s pie. Filled with a saucy, savory leek and mushroom stew, it’s a pie that will please vegetarians and carnivores alike.

Serves 6-8

FOR THE FILLING:
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1 large onion, diced (about 1 1/2 cups)
Salt and pepper
4 medium leeks, tender green and white parts, split lengthwise and cut in 1-inch pieces (about 4 cups)
2 tbsp olive oil
1 lb medium-brown or white mushrooms, quartered
½ lb shiitake mushrooms, caps only, sliced 1/4-inch thick
2 tsp chopped fresh thyme
2 small garlic cloves, minced
2 tbsp chopped parsley
2 tbsp white miso (optional)
2 cups whole milk
2 tbsp cornstarch, dissolved in 2 tablespoons cold water
FOR THE TOPPING:
3 lbs russet or yellow-fleshed potatoes, peeled and cut in 2-inch chunks
6 tbsp unsalted butter
½ cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper
1 cup homemade coarse dry bread crumbs

Heat oven to 350 F.
Put butter in a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to color, 5 to 7 minutes.
Add leeks, a little more salt and stir to combine. Cook mixture for about 5 minutes more, until leeks have lost their crunch, but are still green. Turn off heat.

Cook the mushrooms separately (work in batches if necessary): Put olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When oil is wavy, add both kinds of mushrooms and sauté 2 to 3 minutes, until lightly browned.
(Alternatively, you can roast the mushrooms rather than fry them. Roasting mushrooms at a high heat makes them chewy and meaty-tasting, plus one can do them all at once, so it’s less work, and there are fewer pans taking up stove space.
Slice them, toss them in olive oil, salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar and roast at 500 for 20-25 minutes, turning once. While they are in the oven, you can get the rest done while the mushrooms are cooking.)
Season with salt and pepper. Turn off heat and stir in thyme, garlic and parsley, and toss to coat.

Add mushrooms to onion-leek mixture, and turn heat to medium-high.
Add miso and milk, and bring to a simmer.
Stir cornstarch and water, add to mixture and simmer for 2 minutes, stirring, until sauce thickens. Transfer mixture to a 9-by-13-inch baking dish, and leave at room temperature.

Meanwhile, boil potatoes in salted water until very soft, about 15 minutes. Drain potatoes and mash with 4 tablespoons butter, then stir in cream and beat until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
Spread mashed potatoes evenly over surface of vegetable mixture.
Sprinkle with bread crumbs and dot with remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Bake for 45 minutes, until bubbling and nicely browned.

Do-ahead · Grains · Holiday Food · Nuts · Vegetable sides · Vegetable-related

Feta-stuffed cannellini bean nut roast

November 18, 2021September 7, 2022 Belinda

Revamp the nut roast with this Middle-Eastern inspired version. It’s packed with flavor and has an irresistible herby, cheesy filling. A great vegetarian alternative to turkey!

Recipe by Esther Clark

Serves 6

3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for the tin and for drizzling
1 celery stick, finely chopped
2 leeks , halved and sliced
400g can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
100g pistachios, finely chopped
50g sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained and roughly chopped
80g parmesan, grated
100g cooked quinoa
3 tbsp za’atar
50g fresh breadcrumbs
2 large eggs, beaten
50g plain flour
½ small bunch of parsley , finely chopped
1 tbsp toasted mixed seeds
For the stuffing
100g feta, crumbled
2 tbsp mascarpone
1 tbsp finely chopped chives
1 tbsp finely chopped dill , plus a few fronds to serve
1 lemon, zested
For the broccoli
300g purple sprouting broccoli
½ tbsp coriander seeds , crushed
1 tbsp rose harissa

Oil the base and sides of a roughly 18cm loaf tin and line with baking parchment. Heat 1½ tbsp oil in a frying pan, tip in the celery and leek, and fry for 10 mins, or until both are softened and translucent.

Roughly mash the cannellini beans in a large bowl. Stir through the fried celery and leek, pistachios, sundried tomatoes, parmesan, quinoa, za’atar, breadcrumbs, eggs, flour and parsley. Season well.

For the stuffing, roughly mash the feta with a fork, then stir in the mascarpone, chives, dill and lemon zest. Season.

Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Sprinkle the mixed seeds over the bottom of your lined loaf tin. Pat half the bean and nut mixture into the tin and use a spoon to press out a channel along the middle, roughly 2cm wide. Spoon the feta mixture into the channel, then pat down the remaining bean and nut mixture over the top and around the sides. Cover in foil and bake for 50 mins or up to 1 hr until firm to the touch.

Toss the broccoli in a baking tray with the coriander seeds, harissa and remaining 1½ tbsp oil. Season and roast on the lower shelf of the oven for the last 20 mins of the cooking time, or until crisp at the edges.

Serve the nut roast on a platter alongside the broccoli. Drizzle with olive oil and top with the dill fronds.

Grains · Vegetable sides · Vegetable-related

Faro and Cauliflower Parmesan

October 31, 2021October 31, 2021 Belinda

This dish has all of the crispy-melty-tomatoey appeal of a chicken or eggplant Parmesan, but it uses only one pot. Olive oil provides richness, and broiling lends a cheesy crunch without the mess of breading and frying. The pizza-like flavors and mellow cauliflower make it a (potentially) kid-friendly meal. Feel free to omit the olives if that makes more sense for your family. In fact, this dish is highly customizable: Add more or less red-pepper flakes, throw in some capers or use broccoli rabe instead of cauliflower. Any salty, hard aged cheese will work in place of Parmesan, like asiago or pecorino. Leftovers are great crisped in the oven.
Recipe from the New York Times

Serves 8

FOR THE FARRO AND CAULIFLOWER:
1 ½ lbs cauliflower (about 1 small cauliflower head or 1/2 large cauliflower head), florets and tender stems cut into large bite-sized pieces
1 ¾ cups semi-pearled or pearled faro (about 12 ounces)
1 (32-oz) jar good-quality marinara sauce
¼ cup olive oil
½ cup pitted kalamata or black olives, roughly chopped (optional)
8 garlic cloves, smashed and chopped
3 oz grated Parmesan (about 3/4 cup finely grated)
1 ½ tsp granulated sugar
1 ½ tsp onion powder
1 ½ tsp dried oregano
1 tsp balsamic or sherry vinegar
½ tsp red-pepper flakes, or to taste (optional)
1 ½ tsp kosher salt
Black pepper

FOR THE TOPPING:
1 cup panko
2 oz grated Parmesan (about 1/2 cup finely grated)
1 tbsp olive oil
8 oz fresh mozzarella, sliced into rounds

Heat the oven to 425 F.
In a 9-by-13-inch pan, combine the cauliflower, faro, marinara sauce, olive oil, olives (if using), garlic, Parmesan, sugar, onion powder, oregano, vinegar and red-pepper flakes.
Season with the salt and a generous amount of black pepper. Pour in 1 2/3 cups water (or chicken broth for added flavor) and stir well to combine. Cover the pan tightly with foil and bake in the oven for 40 minutes.
Uncover the pan, stir, and continue baking uncovered until the faro is tender-chewy and the sauce is thick, about 15 minutes more. (If the faro has already soaked up all the sauce and the pan is looking dry, stir in 1/2 to 3/4 cup water/broth, just to make sure the faro has enough liquid to become tender and saucy.)

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, make the topping: Stir together the panko, Parmesan and olive oil.
Turn on the broiler. Evenly cover the top of the faro with the panko topping. Top with the sliced mozzarella. Broil on the top rack, about 6 inches from the heat source, for 2 minutes, rotating the pan once and watching carefully for burning, until the panko topping is deeply browned and the mozzarella has melted.